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Thread: fencing around house for filas

  1. Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    143

    fencing around house for filas

    I live in rural area but am planning on putting up 1200 feet of fencing around house and barn to protect against dogs potentially attacking anyone that would be walking or cycling down the county road next to my house.... I am going to be using metal fence posts with wooden braces on corners and metal gate for driveway.

    I am leaning towards use of posts that would make the fence 5 feet high and I could go a few ways:

    1) 4 foot field fencing with a top wire that is electric at 5 feet (not sure if I should have a bottom wire that is barbed or electric to contain digging (I could go to a full 6 feet for an extra $300 but think maybe 5 is enough with the electric deterrent from an adjustable voltage fence charger)

    2) 6 smooth wires with 3 or 4 being electrified (with no mesh fencing)

    Dogs normally stay inside house but I do have a kennel too so the fence didn't have to necessarily contain them if we were not home and they would be outside. I just want the dogs to be able to go in and out freely when we are home and not worry that they would roam or attack a pedestrian and do some serious damage to the rare jogger/walker/biker.

    any thoughts or experience??

  2. Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    136

    I would never go less than 6ft. You can get 100 feet of 6' "fabric wire" which is what I use for $89. Also if you plan to use steel post, hammer down type, always use 4x4 or 6x6 treated at the corners and I recommend 2 steel post and then 1 4x4 for strength. I space every 10 feet, and if you can afford it skip the steel post all together and do all 4x4's. A pissed fila has some strength. I do alot of fence work. Are you doing flat ground?

  3. Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    143

    it is fairly flat (not totally)...there are places where it may drop about a foot over 50 feet or so regular 4' field fencing is about 160 dollars for 330ft. the smooth wire is way cheaper (like 100 dollars to do 5 wires for 1000ft)

    I was planning on using wood for corners (H braces tightened with wire) and then metal t-posts in between and I was thinking 15' spacing but maybe I should shorten that up some. if the top wire is electric I can't see how the fila could clear that by jumping?? I have not seen the jumping ability since we don't have fences right now. from what I read people are supposed to "teach" the animals about the hot wire so they know by experience it will shock them. I figure a smooth wire is preferable to barbed wire if they did try to go over (so they don't rip themselves or get caught on fence)

  4. Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Alaska, Colorado, WA.
    Posts
    91

    craigslist often has less expensive chain link stuff for sale.


    I used steeples to attack the bottom of the chain link to railroad ties. So far they haven't attempted to get through them. I also suggest you reinforce each spot on the bottom of each gate. My dogs pushed through the wire on one gate before I caught on. No they just go to their pen and stay for poo/pee time.

  5. Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    California
    Posts
    215

    fj45lvr,

    If you want a private email, I can send you pictures of our yard. We live in a sub-rural community. I have had Filas learn to short certain configurations of hot-wire, I've had them break brand new 4x4 pressure treated posts to get to antagonists. What I have now works really well. Feel free to call me personally so I can describe in detail what we easily, and cheaply, set up. I also have references from people that have been to my home and seen the set up that are willing to speak in private to you who can describe what they have seen. I hope this helps.

    Best,
    ''
    Dianna
    de la Luna

  6. Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Staten Island, NY
    Posts
    643

    Dianna, I actually have heard that you have a really nice set up. if you dont mind can you send me pics as well, i'd love to see. thanks.

  7. Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    143

    thanks for info dianna I will try to give a call and follow-up....I don't have 4x4s but rather steel t-posts and I think I am getting some pressure treated 5" round wood posts too that will come with some rope-style electric fence cord, insulators, etc.

  8. Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    143

    4x4's can often have knots or wood-grain that makes them really weak at certain points so I can see where they can break

  9. Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    136

    Believe it or not 3 treated 2"x6" screwed together can be stronger and last longer than 1 treated 6"x6". And is much cheaper. Plus if you use them as uprights in construction, you can lower the middle one and drop a roof truss in there which strengthens and helps brace the roof. BTW treated lumber is getting outrageous $$$. Concrete as well.

  10. Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    California
    Posts
    215

    Brasileirokid,

    Will do, for you and anyone interested. I've had a Fila shoulder break a pressure treated 4x4 that was new to get at a neighbor who was taunting her, so I went with industrial grade 2 inch tubular steel posts. Double faced dogwood fencing overlapping gaps so there is no visual view to excite them, chain link with high tension wire holding top and bottom on my side and hot wire low and medium to keep digging and charging the fence off. If anyone comes in my yard and gets ...... hurt? (mauled) it is their fault and not oursl I'll take pictures tomorrow.

    Best wishes,
    Dianna
    de la Luna

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